Church Potlucks Turned Campus Treasures
The Esans Kitchen: Our newest Visiting Chef
Ejiro Agbude immigrated to Rochester from Delta State, Nigeria in 2016. Her only home away from home was the local community church, which welcomed a huge population of international students studying in Rochester, including a majority of African students. In little to no time, Ejiro was unanimously voted the ‘best cook at the church’ and was handed the responsibility of preparing all the meals for the community’s potluck events.
Word of her jollof rice, crispy puff-puffs, and chicken banga soup got around to Nigerian students in the area, some of who studied at RIT. Just like that, Ejiro became a celebrity in the local space and quickly had her hands full with outcries to cook for more than just church potlucks.
At first, she waved off the praise with a sigh and a smile, but she realized that there was more behind the requests than a few loud, hungry mouths.
“I kept postponing [opening a restaurant] because I didn’t have my license,” Ejiro said. “But the requests didn’t stop. I was putting this off for too long and this was a talent I can make something out of.”
The now restaurant owner and Visiting Chef at RIT finally said “yes” and got the licenses required to operate a business last year, and ever since; she has not looked back once. Esan’s Kitchen officially opened in 2023 and began catering to venues, businesses, and of course, RIT. The connection between the restaurant and RIT was sparked thanks to Nigerian RIT students who attended Ejiro’s church and knew the food would be a perfect fit among the international student population on campus.
Everything is prepared at The Commissary, a public kitchen incubator located on East Main St. in downtown, and then transported by a team of two; Ejiro and her husband.
Nigerian cuisine isn’t readily available in Rochester. Being able to share those flavors with more than just her church and family is what makes Ejiro the proudest.
“It’s been a really fun and rewarding experience to meet and feed all these students,” Ejiro said. “It's a great opportunity to have a market where your goods are needed. I'm very proud to be among the first to start a Nigerian restaurant in Rochester.”
Esan’s Kitchen is built on recipes inspired by Ejiro’s childhood in Nigeria and further developed by her to satisfy all pallets. An example of this can be found in her famous jollof rice, which she prepares in a ripping-hot stove top to emulate the smokey flavors that would be made possible by the firewood her family used back in Nigeria without sacrificing time or an over-rich plate of jollof; which may not be liked by everyone. Nigerian cuisine is largely made up of filling foods, and just like jollof rice, is usually consumed with a hearty soup like the Delta State-style banga soup. The soup is made up of a palm nut based served with smoked fish and is an Esan’s Kitchen specialty.
Esan’s Kitchen is currently in its third semester with the Visiting Chef Program at RIT. Ejiro promises to continue making students smile by being an outlet for international and African cuisine.
“They can come and have good food, soul food, food that’s good for them, whenever they need to feel good,” Ejiro said. “We’ll always be here for that.”